Dodge Ram 99-02 Fuel System Modification
Alternative fuel delivery system for all 24-valve Cummins Turbodiesel
powered Dodge Rams
A look from above at the new VP44 fittings. The 90 degree blue/red
fitting goes into the Bosch VP44 (injection pump). The middle fitting with the hose going down is the fuel pressure
adapter and the right most fitting with the brass fitting on the end is the feed from the tank 3/8" hose.
If you need to do your fuel system on a tight budget, HERE is your answer!!!
1) If you need to replace your lift pump, try ordering Cummins PN 4090046 from a Cummins dealer, not Dodge. It is from
what anybody can tell, the same thing as a factory lift pump for $65 vs $200. Do not ask them any stupid questions like
"Will this fit on a Dodge." If they ask, it's going on a school bus.
2) Purchase and install the Vulcan
Performance 3/8" Transfer Pump
Relocation Kit as seen HERE. Please note that
this only replaces the lines from the tank to the fuel filter, not from the tank to the injection pump.
If you want to go bigger, 1/2" lines, check the full kit from Vulcan... if you want to junk the entire stock system,
The following article outlines replacing the stock fuel system with an efficient,
high flow fuel system. This is the fuel system I use. I have spent lots
of money and countless hours ordering parts, test fitting parts, returning
parts, getting new ones and testing again, in addition to the time spent
putting this page together. From this page, you can do the same with about
$350 or so.
Completely replaces stock fuel system from VP44 back to fuel tank
Eliminates restrictive fuel lines, banjo fittings and pressure robbing,
air-sucking straw in fuel tank module
Better fuel mileage, more power, smoother idle and start ups.
Reduces "hot" (recirculated) fuel being pumped back into your
Uses inexpensive, easy to replace stock style fuel delivery pump (But
don't expect it to die every 20,000 miles like your old one!).
Because the fuel transfer pump will be operating in the way that it was intended to,
it should last a lot longer:
It is mounted away from the hot, vibrating
Fuel transfer pump gets an steady supply of fuel via gravity instead of having to suck it from the tank.
Finally, there is a large 10 micron filter before the pump, so
dirty fuel does not go through the pump, shortening its life.
*** Added 06/01/05 ***
There has been some debate about what is better, filtering before or after
the fuel transfer pump. After some thought, I have decided that it is
better to filter AFTER the lift pump. The lift pump is a cheap pump. We
don't know what sort of air it might introduce to the system, and we don't
know what sort of partiulates it might introduce to the system as it wears
down. As a result, I am suggesting to put the lift pump BEFORE the filter
and then have nothing between your VP44 injection pump other than new,
clean hose and fuel fittings.
Enjoy longer intervals between fuel filter changes with the Racor 6120R10
filter assembly -- these things are BIG. I'm guessing you can change them
every 30,000 miles(!) or possibly more. They flow 120 GPH and the assembly
measures 15" in length and 5" in diameter. A clear bowl at the
bottom levels you see if there is water at the bottom so no more wasting
fuel wondering if there's water in your fuel or not. Also has very easy
to access drain, so no more spilling fuel all over your engine bay and
on the ground.
On a stock 2001 HO 6-speed 2WD truck, we went from 12 PSI at idle and
8 PSI at WOT before the filter housing, to 14 PSI at idle and 12
PSI at WOT at the injection pump! We also gained 2 MPG, from 18 MPG to
20 MPG in combined city/aggressive highway driving!
The parts list here is for if you plan on using a brand new Carter 4601HP
fuel pump which is the same as the factory lift pump but with 3/8" NPT
threads (BIGGER) instead of 12mm x 1.5 metric and regular positive (+)
and negative (-) studs for the power hook-up instead of an the OEM style
power connector. EDIT: There may be some differences between Carter 4601HP and the stock lift pump such as
a "screen" filter on the inlet?
| RUSSELL Anodized -6AN Flare to 12mm x 1.5 Metric adapter|
This threads directly into the VP44 injector fuel inlet port.
NOTE: This is the factory thread size for the VP44, the fuel filter housing
inlet and outlet, and the fuel pump inlet and outlet. This will be helpful
to know if you plan on re-using your stock pump and filter assembly!
| PN: RUS-670510 from Summit
| RUSSELL Anodized -6AN 90° Swivel Coupler
The VP44 outlet is perpendicular with the truck. This takes makes a smooth
90 degree turn so that the fuel can point towards the rear of the truck,
i.e. the tank.
| PN: RUS-640160 from Summit
| RUSSELL Anodized -6AN Fuel Pressure Take Off
This gives you an 1/8" NPT port to get your fuel pressure reading right
at the VP44 where the reading is most accurate. NOTE: You will need to buy a 1/8" NPT to ? barb fitting
depending on what you fuel gauge takes. I setup my fuel gauge to take a 3/8" hose, so I got a 1/8" NPT to 3/8"
barb fitting. You can find this at McMaster.com or local Ace or Home Depot. NOTE: I have found that the type of
fittings Home Depot or Ace carries depends on where you live. Here in NJ they have nothing. In Arizona they had
| PN: RUS-670340 from Summit
|| 1/8" NPT snubber. Reduces the flow of fuel to fuel pressure gauge. This
is supposed to extend the life of the AutoMeter ELECTRIC fuel pressure sender
by reducing pressure spikes. Not required, and definitely not necessary
for mechanical fuel gauges unless yours "jumps" around too much and you'd
like to calm it down.
NOTE: Several diameter snubbers are available, this is the one I used and
it works well.
$6.38 from McMaster-Carr
|| RUSSELL Anodized 3/8inch Barb to Male -6AN
This gets you switched over to 3/8" NPT -- the fuel delivery hose slips
on the barbs.
| PN: RUS670300 from Summit
|| WHICH FUEL HOSE SHOULD I USE ?
On a budget, just get the cheap J30R7! It meets our specifications with no problem!!! I got the J30R9 because I was
running biodiesel through my system AND because I
live in Arizona where it gets to be VERY HOT. Under normal operating circumstances, I honestly cannot see a reason to
get the more expensive hose. One note - Cummins from the factory uses J30R9 on a few short runs.
|| Goodyear Hysunite Fuel Line/Emission Control Hose - 25 ft.
This Hysunite fuel line/emission control hose from Goodyear is designed
especially for gasohol and later carbureted vehicle applications with high
under-the-hood temperatures. The cover is oil and gasoline-resistant and
withstands exposure to fuel, vapor, moisture, and high heat up to 250 degrees
F. The Chemigum rubber tube is specially compounded to resist gasoline,
oil, diesel, and other fuels, while the high-strength synthetic textile
reinforcement brings minimum burst to 175 psi. This hose meets SAE specification
| PN: GTR-65128
$15.69 from Summit or any parts store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, Checkers, etc.)
Same as above but meets SAE J30R9. Good to 300 F, 900 PSI. This is a
higher quality fuel hose that is commonly called "fuel injection hose"
rather than "emissions hose." It will withstand higher temperatures, has
a nicer coating on the outside and seems like it'll hold more vacuum.
Probably "overkill" for our low pressure for system, but it is a nice
peace of mind.
$108.39 from Summit
|| You need four of these for the inlet/outlet of the fuel pump and fuel
filter assembly. Comes with worm clamp.
$15.80 from Summit or any parts store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, Checkers, etc.)
|| Carter Universal Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pump - 100 GPH with 3/8"
The only difference I know between this pump and your stock lift pump are
the electrical connections (Mopar Quick disconnects vs. studs) and the fuel
inlet/outlet threads (12mm x 1.5 vs 3/8" NPT).
NEW: I have read that some people have mentioned that the pre-screen filter on the "IN" side of the 4601 is much
smaller/finer than the factory lift pump. Now that I am running a filter BEFORE the lift pump, I would say you
could just take some pliers and remove this completely. It should be relatively moot as long as A) you run a filter
before the pump and B) it is larger than
your filter size.
You could re-use your stock lift pump if you want:
NOTE: If you re-use stock lift pump, you would have to purchase two more
of PART #1 (12 x 1.5 metric adapter) and two of these AER-FBM1222
from Summit Racing.
NOTE: If you re-use stock lift pump, you only need two not four MRG-2965's.
NOTE: If you re-use stock lift pump, you'll have to come up with a mounting
bracket (leave the factory mounting bracket in your engine block as it plugs
some holes). Personally, I'd just get another pump.
$91.88 from Summit
Click to enlarge for Racor specs
Racor Fuel Filter
This is the guts of the system. High flow, see-through bowl, easy to drain,
easy to switch, etc.
$138.xx from US Diesel Parts
Fuel shut off valve.
ADDED 1/18/06: This is optional. I have since removed this from my setup. I honestly only used this for
purposes. I would
"off" the fuel when I parked, but then I would forget to turn the fuel back "on" when I drove away. So I would start
driving and then 30 seconds later run out of fuel. This can be EXTREMELY dangerous, embarassing, time and money
consuming. But at the same time it could prevent your vehicle from being stolen. I have found that this is NOT
necessary to change the fuel filter. I would have thought that with a bottom fuel feed that the fuel would go pissing
all over the place but it seems that it will not start "siphoning" unless given a boost first, so as long as you are not
sucking on your fuel line...
For security and for ease of changing filters (so
fuel doesn't flow everywhere).
I used a "fancy" Summit EAR-230501ERL which is probably not
as good quality wise, and costs a lot more ($27.69).
You will need a 3/8" NPT coupler (99 cents at Home Depot) to connect
this to the fuel filter housing inlet.
*** Added 11/14/05 ***
Since I don't live in Phoenix anymore (my truck isn't going to get stolen
again) and I moved the pump BEFORE the fuel filter, I took my valve off.
$7.99 from Northern Tool
$0.99 from Home Depot
|Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose Barb to Female -6 AN, Steel,
Go onto bulkhead fitting. There is also a low profile fitting available.
$11.99 from Summit
|| RUSSELL -6 AN Bulkhead Fitting
Radius entry bulkheads provide unrestricted fuel flow out of the fuel cell
and into the pump feed line.
Go in the bottom of fuel tank for gravity feed.
*** Added 06/01/05 ***
After a few months of using the gravity feed, I want to throw out another
option which does not disturb your ground clearance: simple clamp the 3/8"
hose to the "fuel module" and tighten (do not overtighten as the fuel module
fitting is plastic). You may not see as great fuel pressure and fuel economy
increase but you will save a few bucks and you will not have to worry about
|PN: RUS-670850 from Summit
Anodized -6 AN fittings at the VP44 with fuel pressure take off port.
I used 5/6" bolts and a regular drill/tap. The black mount came with
the pump. You might want to use "fine" thread bolts instead just
because the frame is not very thick.
I actually used the factory "top" to the fuel pump. The one that
comes with the pump does not fit (wtf?). You wil understand when you look
Be careful where you mount the filter because it is 15" tall. Mine
is welded "inside" one of the bed mounts. I did it there because
I used to have the bed on the truck and it fit well.
This is the brass bulkhead with a 1" hole and 3/8" NPT threads that I used.
I would NOT use this again!
on DTR used a Russell -6 AN fitting that is smaller, lighter and just as
cheap. Also, with this huge brass bulkhead fitting I am losing about 2"
of clearance. I might actually even suggest using one of these
low profile 90 degree couplers.