Dodge Ram 99-02 Fuel System Modification
Alternative fuel delivery system for all 24-valve Cummins Turbodiesel powered Dodge Rams
VP44 fitting
A look from above at the new VP44 fittings. The 90 degree blue/red fitting goes into the Bosch VP44 (injection pump). The middle fitting with the hose going down is the fuel pressure adapter and the right most fitting with the brass fitting on the end is the feed from the tank 3/8" hose.


5/1/2006 If you need to do your fuel system on a tight budget, HERE is your answer!!!

1) If you need to replace your lift pump, try ordering Cummins PN 4090046 from a Cummins dealer, not Dodge. It is from what anybody can tell, the same thing as a factory lift pump for $65 vs $200. Do not ask them any stupid questions like "Will this fit on a Dodge." If they ask, it's going on a school bus.
2) Purchase and install the Vulcan Performance 3/8" Transfer Pump Relocation Kit as seen HERE. Please note that this only replaces the lines from the tank to the fuel filter, not from the tank to the injection pump.

If you want to go bigger, 1/2" lines, check the full kit from Vulcan... if you want to junk the entire stock system, read on...

The following article outlines replacing the stock fuel system with an efficient, high flow fuel system. This is the fuel system I use. I have spent lots of money and countless hours ordering parts, test fitting parts, returning parts, getting new ones and testing again, in addition to the time spent putting this page together. From this page, you can do the same with about $350 or so.

Features:
  • Completely replaces stock fuel system from VP44 back to fuel tank
  • Eliminates restrictive fuel lines, banjo fittings and pressure robbing, air-sucking straw in fuel tank module
  • Better fuel mileage, more power, smoother idle and start ups.
  • Reduces "hot" (recirculated) fuel being pumped back into your engine.
  • Uses inexpensive, easy to replace stock style fuel delivery pump (But don't expect it to die every 20,000 miles like your old one!).

    Because the fuel transfer pump will be operating in the way that it was intended to, it should last a lot longer:
  • It is mounted away from the hot, vibrating engine
  • Fuel transfer pump gets an steady supply of fuel via gravity instead of having to suck it from the tank.
  • Finally, there is a large 10 micron filter before the pump, so dirty fuel does not go through the pump, shortening its life.

    *** Added 06/01/05 ***

    There has been some debate about what is better, filtering before or after the fuel transfer pump. After some thought, I have decided that it is better to filter AFTER the lift pump. The lift pump is a cheap pump. We don't know what sort of air it might introduce to the system, and we don't know what sort of partiulates it might introduce to the system as it wears down. As a result, I am suggesting to put the lift pump BEFORE the filter and then have nothing between your VP44 injection pump other than new, clean hose and fuel fittings.

    Enjoy longer intervals between fuel filter changes with the Racor 6120R10 filter assembly -- these things are BIG. I'm guessing you can change them every 30,000 miles(!) or possibly more. They flow 120 GPH and the assembly measures 15" in length and 5" in diameter. A clear bowl at the bottom levels you see if there is water at the bottom so no more wasting fuel wondering if there's water in your fuel or not. Also has very easy to access drain, so no more spilling fuel all over your engine bay and on the ground.

    On a stock 2001 HO 6-speed 2WD truck, we went from 12 PSI at idle and 8 PSI at WOT before the filter housing, to 14 PSI at idle and 12 PSI at WOT at the injection pump! We also gained 2 MPG, from 18 MPG to 20 MPG in combined city/aggressive highway driving!

    The parts list here is for if you plan on using a brand new Carter 4601HP fuel pump which is the same as the factory lift pump but with 3/8" NPT threads (BIGGER) instead of 12mm x 1.5 metric and regular positive (+) and negative (-) studs for the power hook-up instead of an the OEM style power connector. EDIT: There may be some differences between Carter 4601HP and the stock lift pump such as a "screen" filter on the inlet?
    		•




    		RUSSELL Anodized -6AN Flare to 12mm x 1.5 Metric adapter

    This threads directly into the VP44 injector fuel inlet port.

    NOTE: This is the factory thread size for the VP44, the fuel filter housing inlet and outlet, and the fuel pump inlet and outlet. This will be helpful to know if you plan on re-using your stock pump and filter assembly!

    		PN: RUS-670510 from Summit

    		RUSSELL Anodized -6AN 90° Swivel Coupler

    The VP44 outlet is perpendicular with the truck. This takes makes a smooth 90 degree turn so that the fuel can point towards the rear of the truck, i.e. the tank.
    		 PN: RUS-640160 from Summit

    		RUSSELL Anodized -6AN Fuel Pressure Take Off

    This gives you an 1/8" NPT port to get your fuel pressure reading right at the VP44 where the reading is most accurate. NOTE: You will need to buy a 1/8" NPT to ? barb fitting depending on what you fuel gauge takes. I setup my fuel gauge to take a 3/8" hose, so I got a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" barb fitting. You can find this at McMaster.com or local Ace or Home Depot. NOTE: I have found that the type of fittings Home Depot or Ace carries depends on where you live. Here in NJ they have nothing. In Arizona they had everything.     		PN: RUS-670340 from Summit
    1/8" NPT snubber. Reduces the flow of fuel to fuel pressure gauge. This is supposed to extend the life of the AutoMeter ELECTRIC fuel pressure sender by reducing pressure spikes. Not required, and definitely not necessary for mechanical fuel gauges unless yours "jumps" around too much and you'd like to calm it down.

    NOTE: Several diameter snubbers are available, this is the one I used and it works well.    		 OPTIONAL

    PN: 3820K13
    $6.38 from McMaster-Carr
    RUSSELL Anodized 3/8inch Barb to Male -6AN

    This gets you switched over to 3/8" NPT -- the fuel delivery hose slips on the barbs.    		 PN: RUS670300 from Summit
    WHICH FUEL HOSE SHOULD I USE ? On a budget, just get the cheap J30R7! It meets our specifications with no problem!!! I got the J30R9 because I was running biodiesel through my system AND because I live in Arizona where it gets to be VERY HOT. Under normal operating circumstances, I honestly cannot see a reason to get the more expensive hose. One note - Cummins from the factory uses J30R9 on a few short runs.
    Goodyear Hysunite Fuel Line/Emission Control Hose - 25 ft.

    This Hysunite fuel line/emission control hose from Goodyear is designed especially for gasohol and later carbureted vehicle applications with high under-the-hood temperatures. The cover is oil and gasoline-resistant and withstands exposure to fuel, vapor, moisture, and high heat up to 250 degrees F. The Chemigum rubber tube is specially compounded to resist gasoline, oil, diesel, and other fuels, while the high-strength synthetic textile reinforcement brings minimum burst to 175 psi. This hose meets SAE specification J30R7.     		PN: GTR-65128
    $15.69 from Summit or any parts store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, Checkers, etc.)

    Goodyear

    Same as above but meets SAE J30R9. Good to 300 F, 900 PSI. This is a higher quality fuel hose that is commonly called "fuel injection hose" rather than "emissions hose." It will withstand higher temperatures, has a nicer coating on the outside and seems like it'll hold more vacuum. Probably "overkill" for our low pressure for system, but it is a nice peace of mind.

    		 PN: GTR-65153
    $108.39 from Summit
    You need four of these for the inlet/outlet of the fuel pump and fuel filter assembly. Comes with worm clamp.
    		 PN: MRG-2965 x 4
    $3.95

    $15.80 from Summit or any parts store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, Checkers, etc.)
    Carter Universal Rotary Vane Electric Fuel Pump - 100 GPH with 3/8" NPT threads.

    The only difference I know between this pump and your stock lift pump are the electrical connections (Mopar Quick disconnects vs. studs) and the fuel inlet/outlet threads (12mm x 1.5 vs 3/8" NPT).
    NEW: I have read that some people have mentioned that the pre-screen filter on the "IN" side of the 4601 is much smaller/finer than the factory lift pump. Now that I am running a filter BEFORE the lift pump, I would say you could just take some pliers and remove this completely. It should be relatively moot as long as A) you run a filter before the pump and B) it is larger than your filter size.

    You could re-use your stock lift pump if you want:

    NOTE: If you re-use stock lift pump, you would have to purchase two more of PART #1 (12 x 1.5 metric adapter) and two of these AER-FBM1222 from Summit Racing.

    NOTE: If you re-use stock lift pump, you only need two not four MRG-2965's.

    NOTE: If you re-use stock lift pump, you'll have to come up with a mounting bracket (leave the factory mounting bracket in your engine block as it plugs some holes). Personally, I'd just get another pump.    		 PN: CRT-P4601HP

    $91.88 from Summit

    Click to enlarge for Racor specs

    Racor Fuel Filter

    This is the guts of the system. High flow, see-through bowl, easy to drain, easy to switch, etc.

    		PN: 6120R10
    $138.xx from US Diesel Parts

    Fuel shut off valve.

    ADDED 1/18/06: This is optional. I have since removed this from my setup. I honestly only used this for security purposes. I would turn "off" the fuel when I parked, but then I would forget to turn the fuel back "on" when I drove away. So I would start driving and then 30 seconds later run out of fuel. This can be EXTREMELY dangerous, embarassing, time and money consuming. But at the same time it could prevent your vehicle from being stolen. I have found that this is NOT necessary to change the fuel filter. I would have thought that with a bottom fuel feed that the fuel would go pissing all over the place but it seems that it will not start "siphoning" unless given a boost first, so as long as you are not sucking on your fuel line...

    For security and for ease of changing filters (so fuel doesn't flow everywhere).

    I used a "fancy" Summit EAR-230501ERL which is probably not as good quality wise, and costs a lot more ($27.69).

    You will need a 3/8" NPT coupler (99 cents at Home Depot) to connect this to the fuel filter housing inlet.

    *** Added 11/14/05 ***
    Since I don't live in Phoenix anymore (my truck isn't going to get stolen again) and I moved the pump BEFORE the fuel filter, I took my valve off. No need.

    		 PN: 20732W
    $7.99 from Northern Tool

    $0.99 from Home Depot

    		Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose Barb to Female -6 AN, Steel, Natural, Each

    Go onto bulkhead fitting. There is also a low profile fitting available.    		 AER-FBM1442
    $11.99 from Summit
    RUSSELL -6 AN Bulkhead Fitting

    Radius entry bulkheads provide unrestricted fuel flow out of the fuel cell and into the pump feed line.

    Go in the bottom of fuel tank for gravity feed.

    *** Added 06/01/05 ***

    After a few months of using the gravity feed, I want to throw out another option which does not disturb your ground clearance: simple clamp the 3/8" hose to the "fuel module" and tighten (do not overtighten as the fuel module fitting is plastic). You may not see as great fuel pressure and fuel economy increase but you will save a few bucks and you will not have to worry about ground clearance.    		 PN: RUS-670850 from Summit


    Anodized -6 AN fittings at the VP44 with fuel pressure take off port.


    I used 5/6" bolts and a regular drill/tap. The black mount came with the pump. You might want to use "fine" thread bolts instead just because the frame is not very thick.

    I actually used the factory "top" to the fuel pump. The one that comes with the pump does not fit (wtf?). You wil understand when you look at it.

    Be careful where you mount the filter because it is 15" tall. Mine is welded "inside" one of the bed mounts. I did it there because I used to have the bed on the truck and it fit well.



    This is the brass bulkhead with a 1" hole and 3/8" NPT threads that I used.

    I would NOT use this again!

    MLR1 on DTR used a Russell -6 AN fitting that is smaller, lighter and just as cheap. Also, with this huge brass bulkhead fitting I am losing about 2" of clearance. I might actually even suggest using one of these low profile 90 degree couplers.